Days 40 through 44 - Last stop before heading home - Siena
To be able to properly visit Tuscany, and not just pass through, has always been an ambition of mine; so after much deliberation I just had to head for Siena, which is the beating heart of the region. Siena is roughly equidistant from Pisa in the west and Florence in the east so a lovely place to call a base if you want to do some exploring. Although I must admit after 6 weeks of cities and constant movement, all’s I want to do is chill for a few days with some gorgeous scenary, fabulous food and the worlds best wines (strictly my own opinion and that of every person who lives in Tuscany of course!).
Imagine - brilliant sunshine, terracotta roof tops, a walled old town (which is a maze of narrow streets and piazzas); the pageantry of the Contradas (districts) who practice for the big event (The Palio) during the week leading up to one of Siena biggest festivals of the year (so big they like to do it twice - July and August); numerous Chianti and Brunello vineyards; a hotel on a hill that overlooks all of this and what have I got - heaven for a few days. A free up-grade to a suite and getting to know the waiters always helps, particularly at pre-dinner drinks time!
I’m not lumping all these days into one because nothing went on but rather because I can’t talk about Siena without including events and sights that happened on more than one day. Long and short of it is that it’s an ideal place to end this little trip.
The first day was mostly about travelling to Siena, two trains from Pisa and one ran over 1/2 an hour late meaning that I missed the connection, but not to worry its Italy, what can you expect! I got there eventually and caught a taxi up to my hotel for the next 4 days. What you must remember in Tuscany is that all the towns are up hills (originally built as fortresses) but the railway runs along the lowlands so its generally not a good idea to have heavy bags and expect to be able to walk far.
There is a lot of history to Siena which is both a town and a region in Tuscany. As stated above the old town is a maze of narrow streets in which you can easily get lost .... and that’s the best way to discover this town. Throw away the map and just let yourself get immersed in the buildings, piazzas, churches, statues, little shops selling local produce (and giving away free samples), wine bars that offer ‘free’ tasting sessions (defy anyone to come out of them without actually purchasing a nice bottle of Chianti). So you can see how some of my days here were spent - totally immersed in the town. Oh, I did do some exercise as the Tower in the Piazza del Campo has over 400 steps to the most magnificent view, so not totally about wine and food! Just a word of caution - the restaurants that surround the Piazza del Campo are ridiculously expensive, move just one street over and the prices reduce dramatically for equally good food.
The Cathedral is in the Duomo Piazza along with the Santa Clara museum and the reason for European mentioning these especially is that they contain certain relics. Now, on this trip I’ve found that European churches love their reglious relics; there’s blood, body parts and garment fragments of Jesus and a myriad of saints all over the place and Siena is no different. In the Cathedral they have the right hand of John the Baptist, although you can’t really see the actual hand as it’s encased in a metal glove. Anyway, they say that this hand baptised Jesus - how do they know that for sure, he may have been left handed. Did JtB just splash Jesus with one hand or did he give him a good dunking with both bands? I think it is a bit insensitive to us ‘lefties’ to imply that the left hand had nothing to do with the act!.
In the museum there are numerous religious relics including a small sample of Jesus’ blood now you would think that this would be in the Cathedral and not just a museum (albeit a religious one) but it does beg the question - do they think JtB more important than the big man himself?
As I alluded to above, the town is preparing for the event of the year - they have the bi-annual Palio which is a horse race around the Piazza del Campo. Don’t be fooled, this is not an attraction for the tourist, although many people come to Siena just for this occasion but the people of Siena are very passionate about the event. Each district (Contrada) has it’s team and horse (the horse gets blessed by the church of the district before it races - can’t see that happening at Cheltenham!); each district has their own colours (team strip). One evening I went down into the old town with my new friend Anna from Copenhagen (met at the bus stop) and the bus was being held up by a procession. When we got off the bus there where drummer’s, people singing, small children processing and men waving flags in the street - we got swept up in the procession (actually I made Anna get involved, she said she felt like an interloper, I said they are our new ‘team’ and we had to give them support - come on the blue and whites). So, we processed and sang (well mumbled loudly) along with the crowd which eventually ended up in the P del C (piazza del Campo) for the grand finale. Apparently each Contrada has allotted times and days in which they can practice before the big day (2nd July). We were lucky to get involved in the practice that originates from the bus station contract (and the fact they are blue and white - COYS (for that do not know me ‘Come On You Spurs), they had to be my team).
Coming to Tuscany you have to travel around and see the countryside and visit the obligatory vineyards. Feeling that I needed some exercise, but not too much, I booked a tour around the region on an ebike with lunch and wine-tasting. Was picked up by the tour company from the hotel and taken to the place where they keep the bikes etc. There were a mix of people some doing the same as me but others had chosen a Vespa tour and two couples were taking out vintage Fiat 500s. The plan was that we all did our respective tours and met up at lunch time at the vineyard. Great, sounds like an excellent day and the sun is shining. We start off and immediately my bike starts playing up and the chain keeps slipping, we get to the first hill where I needed to change gears and it decided to die. The tour guide took a look at it and initially thought it was me but, after having a goo himself, concluded that the bike was broken. Unfortunately there were no other bikes available so I had to limp the bike back to the workshop. In the meantime negotating with the tour guide what was going to happen next. He asked if I wanted to do the the tour on the back of his Vespa (he fell off his motorbike the day before and couldn’t cycle, not that there was a bike for him anyway. So after his offer of me completing the tour as his pillion I said that rather defeats the reason for me taking the biking tour so suggested that he contact his office and arrange for me to take the tour the following day - which he did, so all agreed that I would do a replay the next day. On the way back to the workshop, Tomasa (the guide) said why don’t I do the pillion ride as well rather than have to wait for a ride back to town which could be a couple of hours. Excellent suggestion, get a wine tour both days! Good idea, so I jump on the back of his Vespa (well not really jumping more struggling to get my leg over - haha - the seat that is) although I didn’t complain as I had my legs a round a 28 year old - happy days!
Met some lovely people on this tour, 2 other women who had recently retired and where just celebrating by taking this trip with their husbands and did the tour with the Fiat 500s -. Gayle and Brad were from the southern states of the USA and although it was Gayles turn to drive, after the wine tasting Brad had to continue - go Gayle, haha!
As agreed with the tour company, I had the same trip on the following day and I was picked up by the gorgeous Daniel in his private car; he lives nearby and could pick me up on his way into work. We had a nice little chat on the way in and I didn’t know at the time as he looked so smart that he was going to be our guide, I thought he was either the owner or worked in the offices. Neither of which were true as he also had what he calls his proper job as rep for a semi-precious stones company that he does 4 days a week and the rest of the week he works as a tour guide because he enjoys it. I wished that I had chosen something a little more smarter to wear than a white baggy t-shirt and trekking shorts!. Anyway it went from bad to worse as when we were at our first stop the heaven opened (I mean really opened - lightening, thunder and hair stones) so much so I had to buy a plastic mac to try to keep a little dry although to be honest it was a futile effort. So not only now did I look scruffy, but I looked sopping wet, bedraggled and scruffy - needless to say nothing happened with Daniel.
But although the day was very wet, I had a great time and once again met some wonderful people. Marlene who was a demon on the bike, always out front and setting the pace (great lady has a fun sense of humour). She was so fit, she lives in Florida and cycles 90 odd km each day; then Mark and Matteo from Canada. We all had a great day but all got soaked through to the skin. Couldn’t wait to get back to the hotel for a hot shower and change of clothes.
Dinner in the hotel is getting better, funny the more I flash my laptop the better the food and service gets! Been doing this blog over a few days so they see my photos and that I’m writing a commentary.
Hotels or Booking .com as the hotels prefer and offer incentives to book direct. So check out the sites for the email address but don’t book through them.
Last day now so signing off, I hope you’ve had a much fun as I have in documenting it; It’s been a blast and I’ve loved every minute of this (for me) an adventure; I’ve been scared at times, felt alone but never in danger; you’re brain plays trick with you and it depends on how you deal with it. On the whole, most people are lovely and want to just get along, there are a very few who are after their own agenda and you need to allow for these selfish individuals because they are individuals!! I’ve met some lovely people along the way and learnt a lesson or two on how to travel which I hope you have picked up on. I love Europe and hope to do it again soon even though we may be out of Europe (BREXIT).
Oh, one big lesson I’ve learnt is how to dunk the biscotti - give it 5 seconds in the liquid of choice - the traditional way in a glass of Vinsanto. Ciao.
Imagine - brilliant sunshine, terracotta roof tops, a walled old town (which is a maze of narrow streets and piazzas); the pageantry of the Contradas (districts) who practice for the big event (The Palio) during the week leading up to one of Siena biggest festivals of the year (so big they like to do it twice - July and August); numerous Chianti and Brunello vineyards; a hotel on a hill that overlooks all of this and what have I got - heaven for a few days. A free up-grade to a suite and getting to know the waiters always helps, particularly at pre-dinner drinks time!
I’m not lumping all these days into one because nothing went on but rather because I can’t talk about Siena without including events and sights that happened on more than one day. Long and short of it is that it’s an ideal place to end this little trip.
The first day was mostly about travelling to Siena, two trains from Pisa and one ran over 1/2 an hour late meaning that I missed the connection, but not to worry its Italy, what can you expect! I got there eventually and caught a taxi up to my hotel for the next 4 days. What you must remember in Tuscany is that all the towns are up hills (originally built as fortresses) but the railway runs along the lowlands so its generally not a good idea to have heavy bags and expect to be able to walk far.
There is a lot of history to Siena which is both a town and a region in Tuscany. As stated above the old town is a maze of narrow streets in which you can easily get lost .... and that’s the best way to discover this town. Throw away the map and just let yourself get immersed in the buildings, piazzas, churches, statues, little shops selling local produce (and giving away free samples), wine bars that offer ‘free’ tasting sessions (defy anyone to come out of them without actually purchasing a nice bottle of Chianti). So you can see how some of my days here were spent - totally immersed in the town. Oh, I did do some exercise as the Tower in the Piazza del Campo has over 400 steps to the most magnificent view, so not totally about wine and food! Just a word of caution - the restaurants that surround the Piazza del Campo are ridiculously expensive, move just one street over and the prices reduce dramatically for equally good food.
In the museum there are numerous religious relics including a small sample of Jesus’ blood now you would think that this would be in the Cathedral and not just a museum (albeit a religious one) but it does beg the question - do they think JtB more important than the big man himself?
As I alluded to above, the town is preparing for the event of the year - they have the bi-annual Palio which is a horse race around the Piazza del Campo. Don’t be fooled, this is not an attraction for the tourist, although many people come to Siena just for this occasion but the people of Siena are very passionate about the event. Each district (Contrada) has it’s team and horse (the horse gets blessed by the church of the district before it races - can’t see that happening at Cheltenham!); each district has their own colours (team strip). One evening I went down into the old town with my new friend Anna from Copenhagen (met at the bus stop) and the bus was being held up by a procession. When we got off the bus there where drummer’s, people singing, small children processing and men waving flags in the street - we got swept up in the procession (actually I made Anna get involved, she said she felt like an interloper, I said they are our new ‘team’ and we had to give them support - come on the blue and whites). So, we processed and sang (well mumbled loudly) along with the crowd which eventually ended up in the P del C (piazza del Campo) for the grand finale. Apparently each Contrada has allotted times and days in which they can practice before the big day (2nd July). We were lucky to get involved in the practice that originates from the bus station contract (and the fact they are blue and white - COYS (for that do not know me ‘Come On You Spurs), they had to be my team).
Coming to Tuscany you have to travel around and see the countryside and visit the obligatory vineyards. Feeling that I needed some exercise, but not too much, I booked a tour around the region on an ebike with lunch and wine-tasting. Was picked up by the tour company from the hotel and taken to the place where they keep the bikes etc. There were a mix of people some doing the same as me but others had chosen a Vespa tour and two couples were taking out vintage Fiat 500s. The plan was that we all did our respective tours and met up at lunch time at the vineyard. Great, sounds like an excellent day and the sun is shining. We start off and immediately my bike starts playing up and the chain keeps slipping, we get to the first hill where I needed to change gears and it decided to die. The tour guide took a look at it and initially thought it was me but, after having a goo himself, concluded that the bike was broken. Unfortunately there were no other bikes available so I had to limp the bike back to the workshop. In the meantime negotating with the tour guide what was going to happen next. He asked if I wanted to do the the tour on the back of his Vespa (he fell off his motorbike the day before and couldn’t cycle, not that there was a bike for him anyway. So after his offer of me completing the tour as his pillion I said that rather defeats the reason for me taking the biking tour so suggested that he contact his office and arrange for me to take the tour the following day - which he did, so all agreed that I would do a replay the next day. On the way back to the workshop, Tomasa (the guide) said why don’t I do the pillion ride as well rather than have to wait for a ride back to town which could be a couple of hours. Excellent suggestion, get a wine tour both days! Good idea, so I jump on the back of his Vespa (well not really jumping more struggling to get my leg over - haha - the seat that is) although I didn’t complain as I had my legs a round a 28 year old - happy days!
Met some lovely people on this tour, 2 other women who had recently retired and where just celebrating by taking this trip with their husbands and did the tour with the Fiat 500s -. Gayle and Brad were from the southern states of the USA and although it was Gayles turn to drive, after the wine tasting Brad had to continue - go Gayle, haha!
As agreed with the tour company, I had the same trip on the following day and I was picked up by the gorgeous Daniel in his private car; he lives nearby and could pick me up on his way into work. We had a nice little chat on the way in and I didn’t know at the time as he looked so smart that he was going to be our guide, I thought he was either the owner or worked in the offices. Neither of which were true as he also had what he calls his proper job as rep for a semi-precious stones company that he does 4 days a week and the rest of the week he works as a tour guide because he enjoys it. I wished that I had chosen something a little more smarter to wear than a white baggy t-shirt and trekking shorts!. Anyway it went from bad to worse as when we were at our first stop the heaven opened (I mean really opened - lightening, thunder and hair stones) so much so I had to buy a plastic mac to try to keep a little dry although to be honest it was a futile effort. So not only now did I look scruffy, but I looked sopping wet, bedraggled and scruffy - needless to say nothing happened with Daniel.
But although the day was very wet, I had a great time and once again met some wonderful people. Marlene who was a demon on the bike, always out front and setting the pace (great lady has a fun sense of humour). She was so fit, she lives in Florida and cycles 90 odd km each day; then Mark and Matteo from Canada. We all had a great day but all got soaked through to the skin. Couldn’t wait to get back to the hotel for a hot shower and change of clothes.
Dinner in the hotel is getting better, funny the more I flash my laptop the better the food and service gets! Been doing this blog over a few days so they see my photos and that I’m writing a commentary.
Hotels or Booking .com as the hotels prefer and offer incentives to book direct. So check out the sites for the email address but don’t book through them.
Last day now so signing off, I hope you’ve had a much fun as I have in documenting it; It’s been a blast and I’ve loved every minute of this (for me) an adventure; I’ve been scared at times, felt alone but never in danger; you’re brain plays trick with you and it depends on how you deal with it. On the whole, most people are lovely and want to just get along, there are a very few who are after their own agenda and you need to allow for these selfish individuals because they are individuals!! I’ve met some lovely people along the way and learnt a lesson or two on how to travel which I hope you have picked up on. I love Europe and hope to do it again soon even though we may be out of Europe (BREXIT).
Oh, one big lesson I’ve learnt is how to dunk the biscotti - give it 5 seconds in the liquid of choice - the traditional way in a glass of Vinsanto. Ciao.
An amazing trip matey and I am glad you have had a blast. and nearly got your leg over a 28 year old 😜
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